What is a Cashmere Goat?
Cashmere goats are a type, not a breed. Most goat breeds, except
Angora, can produce a fine, winter undercoat in various quantities and
qualities that may be classified as “cashmere”. There is no such
thing as a “purebred” cashmere goat. A cashmere goat may be any
color or mix of colors. They were first imported into the U.S.
from Australia and New Zealand in the late 1980’s.
Cashmere production is a new industry in the U.S with 60% of the
world’s supply of cashmere coming from China and the remainder coming
from Turkey, Iraq, Iran, Kashmir, Australia and New Zealand.
What defines cashmere fiber?
To be classified as cashmere, the undercoat of the goat must be no more
than 18 microns in diameter, crimped as opposed to straight,
non-medulated (not hollow), at least 1.25 inches in length and low in
luster. There should be a good distinction between the coarse,
outer guard hair and the fine under-down. Fiber colors can range
from deep brown to white with most of the intermediate colors falling
in the gray range.
Fiber style refers to the natural crimp or zigzag curvatures of each
individual fiber and results from the microscopic structure of each
fiber. The more crimpy the fiber, the finer the yarn can be spun
thereby creating a soft, lightweight, lofty product. “Loft” results
from tiny air spaces trapped between the individual fibers, which
characterizes quality cashmere sweaters. The loft retains heat, which
creates warmth without weight and softness suitable for a babies skin.
Cashmere Production
The amount of cashmere a goat produces depends on a number of factors,
the most important of which is how much selective breeding is in the
goat’s genetic background. The amount of down produced depends on the
diameter, the length of the fiber and the overall fleece coverage. For
instance, a goat may have good coverage but if much of that fleece is
shorter than 1.25 inches or coarser then 18 microns the final fleece
weight will be compromised.
Cashmere begins to grow around the time of the Summer Solstices (June
21) and stops growing around the Winter Solstices (December 21). Goats
shed their down from December until sometimes well into spring. The
fleece can be combed from the goat or sheared. Fleeces may range in
weight from 2-3 ounces to as much as 2.5 lbs. although a fleece that
large is rare. Most fleeces are in the 4-5 once range. Before the
fleeces can be spun into yarn they must be dehaired. Dehairing is a
process by which the coarser, outer guard hairs are separated from the
fine down. Mills that provided dehairing were at one time difficult to
find but there has been a recent surge in the opening of small mills
that offers this service within the last few years. The fiber is then
usually spun into a lightweight yarn.
Raising Cashmere Goats
Cashmere goats are easy to raise and care for. They do well browsing in
woodlands and pastures and require much less supplemental feed compared
to milk and meat goats. They are useful in clearing land of weeds and
brush and actually seem to prefer this type of browse.
They require the usual hoof trimming, worming and general care of any
other type of goat. They tend to have very few pregnancy and delivery
problems and the does are very good mothers. The standard for cashmere
goats is that they are horned. The horns disperse heat in the
summertime and can grow to dramatic proportions.